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Sun rises above the morning fog between Kalkar and Kleve in Germany's Niederrhein.
Sun rises above the morning fog between Kalkar and Kleve in
Germany's Niederrhein.

A boy rides his bike at dawn near Huisberden in Germany's Niederrhein.
A boy rides his bike at dawn near Huisberden in Germany's Niederrhein.

Geese fly over Evangelische Kirche Keeken, Bylandsweg 1, 47533 Kleve/Keeken, Germany
Geese fly over Evangelische Kirche Keeken, near Kleve, Germany

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Montage: Schwanenburg castle in Kleve, balloons over Kalkar, geese over mill and church, sunrise over foggy Rhine.

Kleve means ‘cliff’ and its castle, die Schwanenburg, sits atop that cliff. It rises majestically above the surrounding land on a ridge which was pushed up by glacial movement during the Ice Age. The name ‘Schwanenburg’ dates from the 19th century (having previously been called by its Dutch name, ‘het Slot van Cleef,’ or the Castle of Cleves). Its smaller tower has been known as Schwanenturm since the Middle Ages.

The story of Percival’s son, Lohengrin — the mysterious knight who arrived in a swan-drawn boat to defend a noble damsel and later to become her husband — is centered here according to local legend, and there are many local references to swans and the swan knight.

Of course the other famous personage in Kleve’s history is Anne of Cleves, one of Henry VIII’s many wives. As in olden times and apparently aloof to it all, real swans paddle around the Spoykanal.

Kleve is farther from the Rhine than it was in the Middle Ages, before the river changed its course. Still, at least one boat — De Duffelt from Millingen aan de Rijn — comes up the Spoykanal to stop here.

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Copyright © Don Douglas